High on her Southwest face hangs a glacier resembling a 'Dablam' - the sacred ornament box worn by ladies in the Sherpa community. It was this spectacular feature that got her the name "Ama Dablam". She lies alongside Everest in the heart of the Khumbu valley offering a superb climb up a spectacular ridge.
The route we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu. Much of he route on the actual climbing is fixed with no icefall or glacier to negotiate, and most of it is concentrated on the crest of a ridge. The climb is relatively safe though exposed and sheep and not really a mountain for debutantes.
The stunning pyramid of Ama Dablam is regarded as one of the world's most beautiful and sought-after peaks, alongside the Matterhorn and Khan Tengri. The experienced mountaineer will find the South East Ridge, at its easiest, a real challenge. It offers good steep mixed climbing in the most stunning and exposed situations. Fixed lines will be used to ease our ascent for most of its length.
The ascent to Camp One at 5800m is quite straight forward from which point it gradually steepens as we move onto the rocky south-west ridge. The final approach to the summit is on snow slopes up to 45 degrees.
The expedition will be led by a British leader with the support of climbing sherpas, numbers depending on the team size. Local porters will help support our journeys into the mountains. Members should be climbing rock at Hard Severe, be proficient in the use of crampons and have previous experience of climbing AD routes in the Alps or equivalent Scottish Grade 2/3.
Day 01: Kathmandu - Lukla (2800m) and trek to Phakding (2640m).
Day 02: Namche Bazaar (3446m).
Day 03: Namche Bazaar - Khumjung (3790m).
Day 04: Stay at Khumjun g for acclimatization.
Day 05: Khumjun g - Tengboche Monastery (3867m)
Day 06: Tengboche Monastery - Ama Dablam Base Camp
Day 07 - 21 :Mt. Ama Dablam Climbing Period
Day 22: Cleaning up Base Camp
Day 23: Base Camp - Khumjung
Day 24: Khumjung - Phakding
Day 25: Phakding - Lukla
Day 26: Lukla – Kathmandu