Bokta (6,143 m) is an intimidating peak in the Kanchenjunga region in Eastern Nepal. Accomplished 8,000 m mountaineer Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner from Austria says that the Kanchenjunga region is her favourite place in Nepal, “I love it because it’s so wild!” The west side of Bokta is steep and technical, and the eastern side has no straightforward route either. The most promising route is via the col to the north of the mountain. From a high camp at the col, the route follows the snow slope from under the right shoulder to the summit. While the slope is moderately steep, the route suffers exposure to rock fall.
This challenging peak can be climbed by serious mountaineers in good conditions. Bokta’s first ascent was by a Slovenian team in 1991.It is a great addition to the wild Kanchenjunga trek. The region is quite different to the other climbing areas mentioned, with many fewer trekkers. The local Rai, Limbu and Sherpa make excellent Tongba, a fermented millet drink, and many grow the spice Cardamon which has brought wealth to the area.